Security Bars for Every Window Type: Casement, Double-Hung, Awning & More
Not every window is the same, and not every security bar installs the same way. If you've been shopping for window security bars and gotten confused by contradictory advice, it's probably because the answer genuinely depends on what kind of windows you have. A casement window that cranks outward presents completely different mounting challenges than a double-hung window that slides vertically or a slider that moves horizontally along a track.
The good news: there's a security bar solution for every window type in your home. The key is understanding how each window operates, where the bars mount relative to the glass and frame, and what clearance the opening mechanism needs. Get those details right, and you end up with security bars that protect your home without interfering with ventilation, egress, or the window's normal function.
This guide walks through every common residential window type, explains exactly how security bars work with each one, and recommends the best SWB product for the job. Whether you have one tricky casement window or an entire house full of mixed window types, you'll find your answer here.
Why Window Type Matters for Security Bars
Security bars can be mounted in two fundamental positions relative to a window: inside the frame (interior mount) or outside on the wall surface (exterior mount). Which approach works depends almost entirely on how the window opens.
A window that slides up and down (double-hung) stays within the plane of the wall, so bars mounted directly in the frame opening won't interfere with operation. But a window that swings outward (casement, awning) needs clearance between the bars and the glass, or the window simply won't open. Mount bars too close to a crank-out casement and you'll block it permanently.
Beyond the opening mechanism, window type also affects:
- Frame material — Wood, vinyl, aluminum, and fiberglass frames each have different screw-holding capacities and thickness profiles.
- Width range — Sliders and picture windows tend to be significantly wider than casements or hoppers, requiring telescopic or modular bar systems.
- Mounting surface — Some windows sit flush with the exterior wall; others are recessed in brick openings or sit inside a bay structure.
- Egress requirements — Bedroom windows must allow emergency exit regardless of type, which dictates whether you need quick-release bars.
Understanding these variables before you buy saves time, money, and the frustration of returning a product that doesn't fit. Let's break it down by window type.
Double-Hung Windows: The Most Common Type
Double-hung windows are found in the majority of American homes. They have two sashes (upper and lower) that slide vertically within the frame. The glass stays in the plane of the wall when the window is open or closed, which makes them the easiest window type to fit with security bars.
How Security Bars Mount on Double-Hung Windows
Interior frame mount: The SWB Model A telescopes to fit inside the window frame opening. The bars sit between the interior trim pieces, secured by pressure and optional screws. Because the sashes slide behind the bars, you can open the window for ventilation without removing the bars. This is the fastest, cleanest installation method.
Exterior wall mount: For maximum security, bars can be mounted to the wall surface surrounding the window using lag screws into studs or masonry anchors. The SWB Model B is designed specifically for wall-mount applications on brick, block, or concrete. On wood-frame homes with siding, the Model A's wall-mount bracket option works with lag screws into studs.
Clearance Considerations
Double-hung windows need zero additional clearance beyond the frame opening itself. The sashes move vertically behind the bars, so there's no interference. The only thing to watch: if your window has an interior-mounted screen, make sure the bars don't press against the screen track. In most cases, the Model A sits inside the frame trim, outboard of the screen.
Measuring Tips for Double-Hung
- Measure the inside width of the frame opening at three points: top, middle, and bottom. Use the narrowest measurement.
- Measure the inside height of the frame opening. The Model A is designed for the width dimension; height is accommodated by stacking units if the window is very tall.
- Check that the frame is square by measuring diagonals. If they differ by more than 1/4 inch, the frame is slightly racked and you should use the narrower width measurement.
Best SWB product for double-hung: Model A (frame mount) for most homes. Model A/EXIT for bedroom windows. Model B (wall mount) for masonry exteriors where you want bars on the outside.
Casement Windows: Crank-Out Clearance Is Key
Casement windows hinge on one side (left or right) and swing outward using a crank handle at the bottom. They're popular in kitchens, bathrooms, and modern construction because they provide excellent ventilation and an unobstructed view when open. From a security perspective, the outward swing creates a specific challenge: bars mounted inside the frame will block the window from opening.
How Security Bars Mount on Casement Windows
Exterior wall mount (preferred): The best approach for casement windows is mounting bars on the exterior wall, set far enough from the window that the sash can swing fully open behind the bars. This requires 4-6 inches of clearance between the bar plane and the outer edge of the fully open sash. On brick or block walls, the SWB Model B installs cleanly with masonry anchors. On wood-frame walls, the Model A's wall-mount brackets with spacers can create the required standoff distance.
Interior mount (with limitations): If you mount bars on the interior side of a casement window, the window will open freely since it swings outward. However, this means the bars are visible from inside the room, and access for cleaning the exterior glass requires removing the bars. Some homeowners prefer this approach for basement casements that rarely get cleaned from outside.
Clearance Considerations
This is the critical detail for casement windows. The crank handle typically extends 1-2 inches inward from the sash when the window is closed. When the window is fully open, the sash can project 8-12 inches from the plane of the wall. If you're mounting exterior bars, you need enough standoff to clear both the handle mechanism and the open sash.
If you're mounting interior bars and want the window to operate, the bars must sit far enough inside the room to clear the handle when it's cranked. Typically 3-4 inches of clearance from the handle to the bar face is sufficient.
Measuring Tips for Casement
- Measure the frame opening width as with any window.
- Open the window fully and measure how far the sash projects from the exterior wall surface. This is your minimum standoff for exterior bars.
- Measure the handle projection from the interior wall surface when the window is closed. This is your minimum setback for interior bars.
- For multi-panel casements (two or more casement sashes side by side), measure the total opening width and note whether both sashes crank out or only one.
Best SWB product for casement: Model B (exterior wall mount on masonry) or Model A with wall-mount brackets and spacers (exterior on wood-frame). Model A interior frame mount works if you accept that the window still opens outward through the bars.
Awning Windows: Top-Hinged, Bottom Swings Out
Awning windows are hinged at the top and swing outward from the bottom, often operated by a crank or push-out arm. They're commonly installed above or below other windows, in bathrooms, and in basements. Because the bottom edge swings outward, the clearance challenge is similar to casement windows but oriented differently.
How Security Bars Mount on Awning Windows
Exterior wall mount: Just like casement windows, exterior bars need to be offset from the wall far enough that the bottom edge of the sash can swing outward without hitting the bars. Because awning windows typically don't open as wide as casements (usually 30-45 degrees rather than 90 degrees), the required standoff is smaller, often 3-5 inches.
Interior frame mount: Interior bars work well for awning windows because the sash swings outward and away from the bars. The SWB Model A telescopes to fit the frame opening, and the window operates normally since it pushes away from the bars when opening. This is often the simplest approach for awning windows.
Clearance Considerations
Awning windows are often smaller than other types, which means less frame opening width to secure. The Model A's telescopic range handles most standard awning window widths. The main concern is ensuring that the push-out arm or crank mechanism at the bottom of the window doesn't interfere with interior-mounted bars.
Measuring Tips for Awning
- Measure inside width and height of the frame opening.
- Check how far the push-out arm extends into the room when the window is open. Interior bars should not block this arm's travel path.
- For awning windows stacked above or below fixed panels, measure each operable section separately.
Best SWB product for awning: Model A (interior frame mount) for most applications. The sash swings away from the bars, so interior mounting typically allows full window operation.
Slider Windows: Horizontal Tracks and Wide Spans
Slider windows (also called sliding windows or gliding windows) have one or two sashes that move horizontally along a track. They're common in bedrooms, living rooms, and above kitchen sinks. From a security bar perspective, sliders share one important trait with double-hung windows: the sashes stay in the plane of the wall when open, so there's no swing-out clearance to worry about.
The challenge with sliders is width. These windows are often significantly wider than they are tall, sometimes spanning 4, 5, or even 6 feet across. A single security bar unit may not cover the full opening.
How Security Bars Mount on Slider Windows
Interior frame mount: The SWB Model A telescopes to fit openings up to its maximum extended width. For sliders that exceed a single unit's range, two Model A units can be stacked side by side (modular configuration) to cover the full span. The bars sit in the frame track area, and the sashes slide behind them.
Exterior wall mount: For very wide sliders, exterior wall-mount bars provide a clean look and don't interfere with the track or the sash slides. The Model B on masonry or Model A with wall-mount brackets covers wide spans when anchored to the surrounding wall.
Clearance Considerations
Sliders have minimal clearance concerns since the sashes move laterally within the frame. The main thing to verify: the Model A's bar depth (how far it extends from front to back) doesn't prevent the sliding sash from moving freely. In standard installations, the bars sit in front of the sash plane and cause no interference.
For extra-wide sliders, especially sliding glass doors, the modular stacking approach is ideal. Two or three Model A units cover openings that a single bar can't span.
Measuring Tips for Sliders
- Measure the full inside width of the frame opening, not just the sliding panel.
- If the width exceeds a single Model A's telescopic range, plan for a two-unit modular setup.
- Check the track depth. In some older sliders, the track is shallow enough that bar mounting hardware could interfere with sash movement.
- For sliding glass doors, measure the full door opening including the fixed panel if you want to secure the entire span.
Best SWB product for sliders: Model A (single or modular) for frame mount. Model A/EXIT for bedroom sliders requiring egress. Model B for exterior masonry mount on wide commercial sliders.
Picture and Fixed Windows: Simplest Installation
Picture windows (also called fixed windows) don't open at all. They're large, single-pane units designed for views and natural light. From a security bar standpoint, they're the easiest to work with because there are zero clearance or operational concerns. The bars mount, the window sits behind them, and that's it.
How Security Bars Mount on Picture Windows
Interior frame mount: The Model A telescopes to fit the inside width of the frame. Since the window doesn't open, there's no reason the bars can't sit directly against the glass plane. This provides the most secure fit with no gaps.
Exterior wall mount: For large picture windows that dominate a wall, exterior-mounted bars often look more proportional and architectural. The bars span the window opening and anchor into the surrounding wall structure.
The Width Challenge
Picture windows are often the widest windows in a home, sometimes exceeding 6 or 8 feet across. This is where the Model A's modular stacking capability becomes essential. Two or three units placed side by side cover the full span, connected by the mounting hardware into a single continuous barrier.
For homeowners concerned about aesthetics on prominent picture windows, consider decorative security bar designs that complement the window rather than detract from it.
Measuring Tips for Picture Windows
- Measure inside width and height at multiple points (large windows are more likely to be slightly out of square).
- For widths exceeding a single Model A's range, divide the opening into equal sections and plan your modular layout.
- Check the frame depth. Deep frames (common in energy-efficient windows) give you more room for a secure frame-mount fit.
Best SWB product for picture windows: Model A (modular stacking for wide spans). Model B for exterior masonry installations on commercial buildings.
Bay and Bow Windows: Multi-Panel Angles
Bay windows project outward from the wall, typically consisting of a large center panel flanked by two angled side panels. Bow windows follow a gentle curve with four or more panels. Both types create a three-dimensional window structure that requires a more thoughtful approach to security bars.
How Security Bars Mount on Bay and Bow Windows
Individual panel approach: Treat each panel of the bay window as a separate window. Mount individual Model A units in each panel's frame. This is the most straightforward method and allows each panel (which may be a different window type) to operate independently. The center panel is often a fixed picture window, while the side panels are typically casements or double-hungs.
Exterior frame-spanning approach: For a cleaner look, bars can be mounted across the entire bay window structure on the exterior. This requires custom bracket angles to follow the bay's geometry. The bars span from one end of the bay to the other, secured at each panel division point and at the wall junctions.
Interior telescopic approach: The SWB Model A can be mounted within each panel's interior frame opening. Because the side panels of a bay window sit at an angle to the wall, you're effectively working with narrower openings on the angled sections and a wider opening on the center panel.
Clearance Considerations
Bay window side panels are often casement windows (crank-out). If mounting bars inside each panel frame, you need the same crank clearance discussed in the casement section above. The center panel is usually fixed, so no clearance concerns there. For a complete deep-dive, see our article on security bars for bay windows.
Measuring Tips for Bay and Bow
- Measure each panel separately: center width, left-side width, right-side width.
- Measure the angle between the side panels and the wall (typically 30 or 45 degrees for bay windows, gentler curves for bow).
- Note which panels are operable and which are fixed.
- Measure from the interior. Exterior measurements on a bay structure are complicated by the projection and angle.
Best SWB product for bay and bow windows: Model A (individual panel mount). The telescopic adjustment handles the varying widths of center and side panels naturally.
Hopper Windows: Basement Favorites
Hopper windows are hinged at the bottom and tilt inward from the top. They're most commonly found in basements, utility rooms, and bathroom installations where a small, moisture-resistant window is needed. They're the inverse of awning windows (which hinge at the top and swing outward).
How Security Bars Mount on Hopper Windows
Exterior frame or wall mount: Since hopper windows tilt inward, exterior-mounted bars don't interfere with the window's operation at all. The sash moves away from the exterior bars when opening. This is the ideal approach for basement hoppers, where exterior security is the primary concern. See our dedicated basement window security guide for below-grade installation details.
Interior mount (with care): Interior-mounted bars can work, but you need to account for the inward tilt of the sash. The hopper panel swings into the room, so interior bars must be positioned far enough inside that the tilted sash doesn't contact them. For small hopper windows, this usually isn't an issue because the sash only tilts about 4-6 inches inward.
Clearance Considerations
Hopper windows in basements are often set into window wells below grade level. If your hopper sits in a window well, the well walls provide natural concealment that makes these windows attractive targets for burglars. Bars mounted on the exterior, within the window well, are particularly effective because they can't be easily seen or accessed from above.
Measuring Tips for Hopper
- Measure inside width and height of the frame opening.
- For basement hoppers in window wells, also measure the well dimensions to ensure bars fit within the well space.
- Check how far the sash tilts inward when open. If mounting interior bars, provide clearance for this tilt distance.
- Hopper windows are typically narrow (under 36 inches wide), putting them well within the Model A's telescopic range.
Best SWB product for hopper windows: Model A (exterior frame mount). For basement bedroom hoppers, Model A/EXIT to maintain emergency egress.
Jalousie Windows: High Vulnerability, Highest Priority
Jalousie windows (also called louvered windows) consist of multiple horizontal glass slats that tilt open and closed using a crank mechanism, similar to a window blind made of glass. They were popular in mid-century Florida and tropical architecture and are still found in porches, sunrooms, and older homes throughout the southern United States.
From a security perspective, jalousie windows are the most vulnerable window type you can have. Individual glass slats can be silently removed from the outside by lifting them out of their metal clips, creating an opening large enough for a person to climb through in under 60 seconds. No tool is required beyond fingers. If you have jalousie windows, security bars aren't optional; they're urgent.
How Security Bars Mount on Jalousie Windows
Exterior mount (strongly recommended): Because the glass slats are so easily defeated, exterior bars are critical. They prevent an intruder from reaching the slats to remove them. Wall-mount bars on the exterior using the SWB Model B (masonry) or Model A with wall-mount brackets (wood frame) provide the barrier you need.
Interior mount: Interior bars also work, but they don't prevent someone from removing the glass slats from outside. They do prevent a person from climbing through the resulting opening, which still provides significant security. The Model A frame mount is appropriate for interior installation.
Clearance Considerations
Jalousie slats tilt outward when open. Exterior bars need enough standoff (2-3 inches minimum) to allow the slats to open for ventilation. If ventilation isn't needed (for example, in an air-conditioned home where the jalousie is never opened), bars can be mounted flush against the exterior frame with no clearance concern.
Measuring Tips for Jalousie
- Measure the full frame opening width and height.
- Note how far the slats project outward when open if you need to maintain ventilation.
- Inspect the frame condition. Jalousie frames on older homes may be corroded or weakened; bars mounted to a weak frame don't provide much security. Wall-mount bars anchored to the surrounding structure are more effective in this case.
Best SWB product for jalousie: Model B (exterior wall mount on masonry) or Model A with exterior wall brackets. Prioritize these windows above all others in your home.
Egress Windows: Fire Code Requires Quick-Release
Egress windows aren't a separate window type; they're a building code designation that can apply to any operable window in a bedroom, basement living space, or other habitable room. The International Building Code (IBC), NFPA, and local fire codes require that certain windows remain available as emergency exits.
If you install security bars on an egress-designated window, those bars must have a quick-release mechanism that allows them to be opened from inside without tools, keys, or special knowledge. This is a legal requirement, and it's also common sense: in a fire, you need to get out fast.
How Quick-Release Bars Work on Egress Windows
The SWB Model A/EXIT is specifically engineered for this purpose. It has the same telescopic, adjustable design as the standard Model A, but adds an interior-accessible release mechanism. In an emergency, a person pushes or pulls the release (no key or tool required), and the bars swing open or disengage, clearing the window opening for escape.
The Model A/EXIT meets IBC, NFPA, and OSHA egress requirements. This matters not just for your family's safety but also for legal liability. If you're a landlord, installing standard (non-egress) bars on bedroom windows can expose you to serious legal consequences in the event of a fire.
Which Windows Need Egress Bars?
- All bedroom windows — Regardless of floor level.
- Basement living spaces — Any finished basement room used for sleeping.
- Any window designated as a secondary exit — Check your local code or consult your fire marshal.
Window Types Commonly Used as Egress
Egress windows are most commonly double-hung, casement, or slider types because these provide the largest clear opening when fully open. Awning and hopper windows rarely qualify as egress because their openings are typically too small to meet the minimum clear area requirement (5.7 square feet in most codes).
Regardless of window type, the Model A/EXIT adapts with the same telescopic adjustability as the standard Model A. Whether your egress window is a 30-inch casement or a 48-inch slider, the EXIT version covers it with quick-release compliance built in.
Best SWB product for egress windows: Model A/EXIT. This is the only SWB product with a quick-release mechanism, and it's the only appropriate choice for any window that must serve as an emergency exit.
Window Type Comparison Table
Use this table to quickly identify the best mounting method and SWB product for each window type in your home.
| Window Type | Opens How | Best Mount Position | Clearance Needed | Recommended SWB Product | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Double-Hung | Slides up/down | Interior frame | None | Model A | Easy |
| Casement | Cranks outward | Exterior wall or interior | 4-12 in. (exterior) | Model A or Model B | Moderate |
| Awning | Tilts outward (top hinge) | Interior frame or exterior wall | 3-5 in. (exterior) | Model A | Easy |
| Slider | Slides left/right | Interior frame | None | Model A (modular for wide) | Easy |
| Picture / Fixed | Does not open | Interior frame or exterior wall | None | Model A (modular for wide) | Easy |
| Bay / Bow | Varies by panel | Individual panel mount | Depends on side panel type | Model A per panel | Moderate |
| Hopper | Tilts inward (bottom hinge) | Exterior frame | None (exterior) | Model A | Easy |
| Jalousie | Slats tilt outward | Exterior wall (priority) | 2-3 in. for ventilation | Model B or Model A wall | Easy |
| Egress (any type) | Varies | Same as base type | Same as base type | Model A/EXIT | Same as base type |
Universal Measuring Tips for Any Window Type
Regardless of window type, these measuring principles apply to every security bar installation. For a comprehensive step-by-step, see our complete window measuring guide.
Tools You Need
- Steel tape measure (25-foot minimum)
- Level (torpedo or 2-foot)
- Notepad or phone for recording measurements
- Step stool for upper windows
The Three-Point Rule
Always measure width at three points (top, middle, bottom) and height at three points (left, center, right). Windows are rarely perfectly square, and the difference between the widest and narrowest point can be half an inch or more. For frame-mount bars like the Model A, use the narrowest width measurement. The telescopic adjustment will expand to fill, but the starting measurement determines whether the unit will fit.
Frame Mount vs. Wall Mount Measurements
Frame mount: Measure the inside dimensions of the frame opening (jamb to jamb, sill to head). This is the space the bars will occupy.
Wall mount: Measure the outside dimensions of the window frame, then add 2-4 inches on each side for bracket overlap onto the wall. Also measure the wall material (wood stud location, brick thickness, concrete block depth) to determine appropriate fasteners.
Account for Obstructions
Check for window locks, crank handles, screen tracks, blinds/shade brackets, and sensor wires that might interfere with bar placement. For windows with interior blinds, the bars typically mount in front of (closer to the glass than) the blind brackets. For vinyl windows, pay special attention to frame flexibility; vinyl frames can flex under pressure and may need additional support for wall-mount installations.
When to Measure Outside vs. Inside
For interior frame-mount installations, always measure from inside the house. For exterior wall-mount installations, measure from outside. The two measurements will differ because of frame setback, siding thickness, and brick reveals. Using the wrong reference point is one of the most common measuring mistakes homeowners make. If you want to explore installation without drilling into your frames, read our guide on installing window bars without drilling.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you put security bars on casement windows that crank outward?
Yes. The best approach for casement windows is either exterior wall-mount bars with 4-6 inches of standoff to clear the swinging sash, or interior bars that sit behind the crank mechanism. The SWB Model A can be configured for either installation. On masonry walls, the Model B provides a clean exterior wall-mount solution.
Which window type is easiest to install security bars on?
Double-hung and fixed (picture) windows are the easiest. Double-hung sashes slide vertically and don't interfere with frame-mounted bars at all. Fixed windows don't open, so there are zero clearance concerns. In both cases, the SWB Model A telescopes into the frame opening in about 15 minutes with no drilling required for frame-mount installation.
Do I need different security bars for each window type in my house?
Not necessarily. The SWB Model A's telescopic design adjusts to fit virtually any standard window width, regardless of type. The same product works on double-hung, casement, awning, slider, picture, hopper, and bay windows. The only variation is whether you use frame mount or wall mount and whether you need the Model A/EXIT for egress windows. You don't need to buy a different product for each window type.
Can security bars be installed on vinyl windows without damaging the frame?
Yes. The SWB Model A's frame-mount option uses telescopic pressure fitting, meaning the bars expand to fit snugly within the frame without drilling into the vinyl. For wall-mount installations, the bars attach to the surrounding wall structure rather than the vinyl frame itself. Either way, the vinyl window frame remains undamaged. See our full guide on window bars on vinyl windows for detailed instructions.
What window type is most vulnerable to break-ins?
Jalousie (louvered) windows are by far the most vulnerable. Individual glass slats can be silently removed from the outside without any tools, creating a person-sized opening in under a minute. After jalousie windows, ground-floor slider windows and basement hopper windows are the next most common targets because they're often concealed from street view and easily pried open.
How do security bars work on sliding glass doors?
Sliding glass doors are essentially very wide slider windows. The SWB Model A can be used in a modular configuration, stacking two or three units side by side to cover the full door opening. The bars mount in the door frame, and the sliding panels move behind them. For a complete walkthrough, see our guide on sliding glass door security bars.
Do awning windows need exterior-mounted security bars?
Not necessarily. Because awning windows swing outward from the bottom while hinging at the top, interior-mounted bars work well. The sash swings away from interior bars when the window is opened. Interior frame-mount with the SWB Model A is often the simplest approach for awning windows. Exterior mounting is also an option but requires standoff clearance for the outward-swinging sash.
Can I install security bars on bay windows without ruining the look?
Yes. The most aesthetically sensitive approach is mounting individual Model A units inside each panel's frame opening. From the exterior, the bars look proportional to each panel. The decorative bar styles available from SWB complement the architectural detail that bay windows bring to a home, rather than detracting from it.
Are hopper windows in my basement a security risk?
Yes. Basement hopper windows are a significant security vulnerability because they're often below sightline from the street, concealed within window wells, and less robust than upper-floor windows. They're also frequently overlooked by homeowners who focus on front-facing windows. The SWB Model A mounts in the frame opening (exterior side) and turns a vulnerable entry point into a hardened barrier. See our basement security bars guide for more.
What's the difference between Model A and Model A/EXIT?
Both share the same telescopic, adjustable steel bar design. The difference is the Model A/EXIT adds a quick-release mechanism accessible from inside the room, allowing the bars to be opened without tools in an emergency. This makes the EXIT version compliant with IBC, NFPA, and OSHA egress requirements. Use the standard Model A on non-egress windows (kitchens, bathrooms, utility rooms, fixed windows) and the Model A/EXIT on any bedroom window or code-required emergency exit.
Putting It All Together: Your Whole-House Security Bar Plan
Most homes have a mix of window types. Here's a practical approach to securing your entire home:
- Walk your home's exterior. Note every window type, its approximate width, and which floor it's on. Pay special attention to windows not visible from the street.
- Identify egress windows. Every bedroom window needs the Model A/EXIT. All other windows can use the standard Model A or Model B.
- Prioritize by vulnerability. Ground-floor windows hidden from view, basement hoppers, and jalousie windows should be first. Street-facing upper-floor windows can be last.
- Measure using the three-point method. Follow our measuring guide for precise measurements.
- Choose frame mount vs. wall mount. Frame mount (Model A) is fastest and non-destructive. Wall mount (Model B for masonry, Model A brackets for wood) is more permanent and harder to defeat.
- Order the right quantity. Count one Model A per standard window. Plan two units per wide slider or picture window. Budget Model A/EXIT for all bedroom windows.
A typical 3-bedroom home might need: 4 standard Model A units (kitchen, bathroom, living room, utility), 3 Model A/EXIT units (bedrooms), and 1 Model B for an exterior-mount basement window on a concrete foundation. That's 8 units covering every vulnerable window in the house for under $750 total.
Ready to secure your home? Start with the best window security bars for homes in 2026, or explore the complete guide to telescopic security bars to understand why the adjustable design works for every window type you own.