What Security Upgrades Should New Homeowners Make First?

The top 7 security upgrades every new homeowner should make in the first 30 days are: (1) change all exterior locks, (2) reinforce entry doors with 3-inch strike plate screws and deadbolts, (3) install window security bars on ground-floor windows, (4) add motion-sensor exterior lighting, (5) trim landscaping for clear sight lines, (6) install a video doorbell, and (7) set up a basic alarm or monitoring system.

Moving into a new home is exciting and chaotic in equal measure. Between unpacking, setting up utilities, and figuring out which cabinet the previous owners hid the water shutoff valve behind, security often drops to the bottom of the list. That's a mistake.

Your first month in a new home is a high-risk window. You're learning the neighborhood, your routines are inconsistent, and — most importantly — you have no idea who has copies of your house keys. Every real estate agent, contractor, house cleaner, and neighbor who "kept a spare" from the previous owner represents an unknown access point.

Here are the seven upgrades ranked by impact and urgency, with cost estimates and DIY difficulty for each.

1. Change All Exterior Locks

Cost: $15-$25 per lock (rekeying) or $25-$60 per lock (full replacement)
DIY difficulty: Easy
Time: 10-15 minutes per lock
Priority: Do this before your first night

This is the single most important security step when moving into any home, and it's surprisingly affordable. Rekeying means a locksmith changes the internal pins so old keys no longer work — you get new keys without replacing the entire lock hardware. Most hardware stores also offer rekeying services.

If your locks are old, damaged, or low-quality, replace them entirely with Grade 2 or Grade 1 deadbolts. Don't forget secondary entry points: the garage side door, the basement bulkhead, and any other exterior door.

What to Buy

• Rekey kits (Kwikset SmartKey or Schlage SecureKey make DIY rekeying straightforward)
• Or new deadbolts rated ANSI Grade 2 or better
• Don't forget to change locks on detached garages, sheds, and gate padlocks

2. Reinforce Entry Doors

Cost: $10-$40
DIY difficulty: Very easy
Time: 10 minutes per door
Priority: First weekend

A deadbolt is only as strong as the frame holding it. Most residential door frames use strike plates attached with short 1/2-inch screws that a solid kick will rip right out of the wood. Replacing those screws with 3-inch screws that reach the structural stud behind the frame transforms a kickable door into one that requires serious force to breach.

This 10-minute upgrade costs under $15 and stops the single most common method of forced entry in residential burglaries. If you do nothing else on this list, do this and upgrade #1.

Additional Door Reinforcement

• Door reinforcement plates: Metal plates that wrap around the lock area for extra strength ($15-$30)
• Hinge pin protection: Non-removable hinge pins prevent door removal from the outside ($5-$10)
• Door armor kit: Combines strike plate, hinge shields, and jamb reinforcement in one package ($40-$80)

3. Install Window Security Bars on Ground-Floor Windows

Cost: ~$90 per window
DIY difficulty: Easy to moderate
Time: 15-20 minutes per window
Priority: First two weeks

Windows are the second most common entry point for burglars, and ground-floor windows on the sides and back of a home are the most targeted. Unlike cameras or alarms — which detect and record intrusions — window security bars physically prevent entry. A burglar who encounters a barred window doesn't try harder; they move on to an easier target.

The Security Window Bars Model A is a telescopic, modular bar that adjusts to fit standard residential window widths. At roughly $90 per bar, it's one of the most cost-effective permanent security upgrades available. Installation requires only a power drill, tape measure, and level.

Where to Install First

1. Side-yard and alley-facing windows (most concealed from view)
2. Basement and below-grade windows
3. Rear-facing ground-floor windows
4. Any window hidden by fencing or landscaping

For bedroom windows, building codes require quick-release egress bars so occupants can escape in a fire. The Model A/EXIT meets IBC, NFPA, and OSHA requirements.

For a full walkthrough on measuring and installing, see our DIY installation guide.

4. Add Motion-Sensor Exterior Lighting

Cost: $20-$50 per light
DIY difficulty: Very easy (solar) to easy (wired)
Time: 10-30 minutes per light
Priority: First two weeks

Light is one of the cheapest and most effective deterrents available. Motion-activated floodlights eliminate the dark corners and blind spots that make a home attractive to burglars. Solar-powered models cost as little as $20, require zero wiring, and mount with just two screws.

Placement Priority

• Back door and patio (most common forced-entry point after front door)
• Side yards (least likely to have existing lighting)
• Garage exterior and driveway
• Any path from the street to the house that isn't covered by porch lights

For maximum coverage, aim for overlapping detection zones so there are no dark gaps between lights. A typical home needs 3-5 motion lights for full perimeter coverage.

5. Trim Landscaping for Visibility

Cost: $0 (DIY) or $50-$150 (professional)
DIY difficulty: Easy
Time: 1-3 hours
Priority: First weekend

Overgrown landscaping provides concealment for someone trying to break in. Tall bushes under windows, dense hedges along walkways, and low-hanging tree branches all create hiding spots.

The Security Landscaping Rules

• Under windows: Keep shrubs below 3 feet — low enough that someone crouching behind them would be visible
• Near doors: Trim anything that blocks sight lines from the street or neighboring homes
• Trees: Cut branches that overhang the roof or provide access to second-story windows
• Fences: If you have a tall privacy fence, consider whether it's protecting you or providing cover for a burglar working on your back windows

This upgrade costs nothing if you own basic yard tools. It also improves curb appeal — a nice bonus for a new homeowner who wants the place to look sharp.

6. Install a Video Doorbell

Cost: $100-$250 (plus $3-$10/month for cloud storage)
DIY difficulty: Easy
Time: 15-30 minutes
Priority: First month

A video doorbell serves three functions: it lets you see who's at your door when you're not home, it records footage of anyone who approaches your entry, and it acts as a visible deterrent. Package theft — a growing concern for homeowners everywhere — drops significantly when delivery drivers and thieves can see they're being recorded.

What to Look For

• 1080p or higher video resolution
• Night vision
• Two-way audio (so you can communicate with visitors remotely)
• Motion zone customization (to reduce false alerts from passing cars or pedestrians)
• Battery or wired power — battery models are easier to install but need periodic charging

A video doorbell is ranked #6 rather than higher because it's a detection tool, not a prevention tool. It records and alerts but doesn't physically stop someone. That's why upgrades 1-3 (locks, doors, and window bars) come first — they create barriers that a camera cannot.

7. Set Up a Basic Alarm or Monitoring System

Cost: $100-$300 upfront (plus $0-$30/month)
DIY difficulty: Easy to moderate
Time: 1-2 hours
Priority: First 30-60 days

A basic alarm system ties everything together. Door/window sensors detect when an entry point opens, motion sensors detect movement inside the house, and sirens alert you and your neighbors. Self-monitored systems push alerts to your phone; professionally monitored systems dispatch emergency services.

Self-Monitored vs. Professional

An alarm system is the last upgrade on this list because it's the most expensive ongoing commitment and the least effective without the physical barriers already in place. An alarm that goes off in an empty house with easy window access still gives a burglar several minutes before anyone responds. An alarm in a house with barred windows and reinforced doors? That burglar never gets inside in the first place.

Learn more about how physical security and electronic systems work together in our breakdown of bars vs. cameras and alarms.

The Complete New Homeowner Security Checklist

Here's everything above condensed into a printable checklist with estimated total costs:

Total estimated cost: $590-$1,450 (all 7 upgrades)
Most critical subset (upgrades 1-4): $390-$750

For detailed guidance on measuring your windows and choosing the right bars, visit our window measuring guide. And for a deep dive into how window bars fit into a broader strategy, read about the four layers of home security.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the first security upgrade a new homeowner should make?

Change or rekey all exterior door locks before your first night in the home. You don't know how many copies of the existing keys are in circulation from previous owners, contractors, real estate agents, or neighbors. Rekeying costs $15-$25 per lock and can be done at most hardware stores or by a locksmith.

How much do basic home security upgrades cost?

The four most critical security upgrades — new locks, door reinforcement, window bars on 3-4 windows, and motion-sensor lighting — cost approximately $390-$750 total. Adding a video doorbell and basic alarm system brings the total to $590-$1,450. All seven upgrades can be phased over your first 60 days to spread the expense.

Should I get cameras or window bars first?

Window bars should come before cameras. Bars physically prevent entry while cameras only record it. A camera without bars gives you footage of a break-in. Bars without cameras prevent the break-in from happening at all. Once your physical barriers are in place, cameras add a valuable layer of detection and documentation.

Can I install all these security upgrades myself?

Yes. Every upgrade on this list is DIY-friendly with basic household tools. The most involved task — installing window security bars — takes about 15-20 minutes per window with a power drill and tape measure. The only scenario where professional help is recommended is mounting window bars on masonry (brick or concrete) walls, which requires specialized anchors and a hammer drill.

Do I need a professional home security assessment?

Not necessarily. A 20-minute walk around your property — checking every door, window, and entry point — gives you most of the information a professional assessment would. Focus on identifying concealed access points, testing every lock, noting dark areas, and checking for concealing landscaping. Professional assessments are useful for high-value properties or homes with complex layouts but aren't required for a standard residential home.