SWB Home Security FAQ – Answers to Common Questions
Safety Tips & Custom Options
Windows are your home’s light and air—also a common entry point for break-ins. SWB bars are designed to make windows stronger without turning your space into a maze. Our core systems are telescopic (height) and modular (width), so you can secure almost any opening. And if you’re protecting a bedroom or basement, our A-EXIT quick-release lets you open the window from the inside in seconds. Below you’ll find straight answers to the questions homeowners ask us most.
The 60 Most-Asked Questions (with clear answers)
Choosing & Sizing
Pick by room type (sleeping areas need quick-release), opening size (height and width), and mounting surface (wood, masonry, metal). SWB bars cover tall windows via telescopic height and wide spans with add-on modules.
Measure clear width between jambs, clear height where the bar will sit, and mounting depth for brackets. Check for obstructions (blinds, screens, crank handles).
Yes. Our telescopic system reaches up to ~1.80 m (~71 in) vertically. For heights beyond that, ask us about custom posts or stacked segments.
Add modules. Example: a ~1 m (≈39 in) wide opening typically uses two modules, joined to create a continuous guard.
Yes—telescopic bars compress down to short lengths. For slit windows (e.g., bathrooms), we recommend tighter bar spacing to maintain deterrence.
Yes. For horizontal sliders, install the bar across the moving panel’s travel path or mount a vertical telescopic guard that blocks lift-outs.
Casements don’t lift; they swing. Use bars to guard the opening or pair with a security screen. Call us for hinge-clearance tips.
Confirm the minimum egress opening for your jurisdiction, then choose A-EXIT so the bar opens instantly from inside.
No, when placed correctly. Bars should block sash movement, not AC vents. Keep ¼–½ in clearance from the AC casing.
Ground-floor windows often benefit from heavier bars and tamper covers; upper floors can use lighter setups. If a room is for sleeping, prioritize quick-release.
Installation & DIY
Yes. Most installs take ~15–30 minutes per opening with common tools (tape measure, level, drill/driver). No special trade skills required.
Tape measure, pencil, level, drill/driver, appropriate screws/anchors, and (optionally) felt pads and removable threadlocker.
Not if you follow the guide. Use pilot holes in wood, proper anchors in masonry, and felt pads to protect finishes.
Yes. Ask your landlord first and use non-marring pads. We also offer setups that minimize wall impact—contact us for options.
Use masonry anchors sized for your brick/block type. Seal penetrations against moisture. If you’re unsure, send us photos—we’ll advise.
Yes. For horizontal sliders, install the bar across the moving panel’s travel path or mount a vertical telescopic guard that blocks lift-outs.
Not usually. You can space the bar slightly forward or choose low-profile brackets so blinds clear the bar.
Measure at top/mid/bottom and choose the closest telescopic length. Use shims or felt for a level visual line.
If installed correctly, no. Add felt/foam pads at contact points and a drop of removable threadlocker on screws.
Absolutely. That’s a core benefit over custom screens—unbolt, pack, and reinstall with new anchors.
Typical first install: ~30 minutes. Subsequent windows are faster once you’ve done one.
Safety, Egress & Code
Generally yes, but local codes apply. In sleeping areas, you must maintain emergency egress. That’s why we offer A-EXIT quick-release bars.
A mechanism that lets you open the bar from inside in seconds without tools. It keeps burglars out but allows a fast escape.
Designed to be simple enough for a child to use in an emergency, while resisting outside tampering.
They’re engineered for egress when you choose A-EXIT and install per instructions. Always verify local rules for bedrooms/basements.
You can, but at least one egress-capable opening must remain. Many customers use A-EXIT on every sleeping room window to keep it simple.
Exterior access varies by department. Quick-release protects your family’s inside-out escape—which is the priority.
Run a 30-second drill monthly: eyes closed, count to three, reach, release and swing open, then reset.
No. The release is inside-only. Outside fasteners are tamper-resistant.
Basements often require larger clear openings. Choose A-EXIT and confirm the minimum dimensions for your area.
Not exactly. Child-fall guards prioritize fall prevention; security bars add anti-intrusion strength. SWB offers security-grade bars with egress.
Materials, Weather & Durability
Steel, finished for durability. Choose powder-coated finishes for exterior installs and rinse hardware in coastal areas.
With proper finish and maintenance, corrosion is minimal. In salty air, rinse a few times per season and inspect screws yearly.
Matte hides fingerprints; gloss wipes clean easier. Match your window frame color for a clean, built-in look.
Indirectly they can help by keeping the sash firmly seated, reducing drafts. They don’t block vents or HVAC unless mis-positioned.
Bars add deterrence, but they’re not a substitute for impact glazing or shutters. You can combine solutions for layered security.
Not significantly. Dark finishes may absorb more heat; interior-mount bars remain close to room temperature.
Yes—lightly scuff, prime, and paint with metal-safe coatings. Avoid paint on moving release parts.
With basic care, many years. Biggest wear factors are salt, moisture, and mis-use (overtightened fasteners).
Contact us for special-order stainless components if you’re on the coast or want a specific aesthetic.
Properly tightened bars with pads don’t. If you hear noise, re-check level and add thin foam behind contact points.
Security & Smart Home
They provide a rigid physical barrier that blocks lift and leverage attacks on sashes and helps resist casual prying.
Yes. Mount the contact sensor slightly offset and re-calibrate the magnet gap. Test with the window open/closed and the HVAC running.
Yes, but you may need to adjust sensitivity to avoid false alarms from HVAC or traffic vibrations.
They stop entry, which is what matters most. Pair with security film or laminated glass if glass breakage is a concern.
Yes—visible bars are a strong deterrent. Many customers prefer that “seen security” effect versus invisible products.
Absolutely. Bars don’t interfere with interior cameras. For exterior cams, avoid mounting to the bar itself—use the wall or soffit.
No. The small amount of steel near a window doesn’t measurably affect home wireless networks.
Use a sash lock and (optionally) track stops. Bars add a third layer that resists physical manipulation.
Bars are fixed once installed. If you want daytime “open feel,” consider A-EXIT so you can open quickly for cleaning or ventilation moments.
Release components are inside-only and shrouded. Exterior screws use tamper-resistant heads.
Use Cases & Rooms
Yes—A-EXIT is ideal: strong deterrence plus fast inside release. Practice the release with adults monthly.
Bars can be a great upgrade. Confirm with your landlord and choose low-impact mounting. Take them with you when you move.
Yes—modular width is perfect for wide storefronts and office bands of windows. You can keep a consistent look across suites.
Absolutely. Bars protect tools and inventory; choose tamper covers if the window faces an alley.
Yes—just ensure egress in any sleeping area nearby and use finishes that handle humidity well.
If reachable from a porch roof or balcony, yes. Otherwise, prioritize ground-level and basement windows first.
Yes. Screens improve airflow and looks; bars deliver visible deterrence and DIY flexibility. Many customers mix by room.
If the decorative grille isn’t structural, add SWB bars behind it for real security.
Yes—use low-profile brackets and confirm shutter clearance. We can advise placement from photos.
Show that bars are modern, color-matched, and egress-capable (A-EXIT). Provide photos and specs; emphasize safety and uniform appearance.
Safety Tips (Read Before You Install)
- Keep egress sacred. In any room where people sleep, install A-EXIT or ensure at least one window is quick-release from the inside.
- Measure twice. Record width, height, and bracket depths. Take a quick video of the opening—it’s your best ordering note.
- Block the sash, not the AC. Maintain ¼–½ in clearance from AC bodies and vent grilles.
- Use the right anchors. Wood ≠ masonry. Choose hardware for the substrate and add a tiny drop of removable threadlocker.
- Pad contact points. Felt/foam prevents squeaks and protects paint.
- Drill the drill. Practice the 30-second release monthly with everyone in the home.
- Inspect seasonally. Re-tighten after 48 hours and again at 1 month; check coastal hardware a few times per season.
- Photograph everything. Photos help with support, reorders, or if you reconfigure later.
Custom Options & Configurations
- Telescopic height kits: Cover tall openings up to ~1.80 m (~71 in). For extra-tall windows, ask about stack strategies.
- Modular width expansion: Build across wide bays/storefronts by joining modules. Example: ~1 m (≈39 in) often takes two modules.
- A-EXIT quick-release: Interior-only release that even a child can operate—ideal for bedrooms, basements, and daycare/nursery rooms.
- Finish & color matching: Standard neutrals (white/black). Custom colors available on request for multi-unit or commercial orders.
- Tamper covers & security screws: Hide exterior fasteners and resist casual tool attacks.
- Low-impact mounting kits: Options for renters or heritage trim—ask us which bracket style fits your frames.
- Hybrid projects: Combine bars on street-facing windows with security screens on courtyard sides for airflow and aesthetics.
- Photo-based sizing help: Email us pictures with a tape measure—we’ll recommend the exact kit list.